My Question: What are the advantages and disadvantages of a concrete hull sail boat?

concrete

Question:

What are the advantages and disadvantages of a concrete hull sail boat?

Answer by spinmywheels
One big disadvantage is the weight, it will require a huge amount of buoyancy to keep a concrete boat above the surface of the water.

Another disadvantage is that concrete is fairly likely to be eroded by the water, and over time the boat’s hull will wear thin, and eventually there will be holes

Can’t think of any advantages…other than you will get a nice view of the bottom of the sea.

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8 Responses to My Question: What are the advantages and disadvantages of a concrete hull sail boat?

  1. jtexas says:

    concrete is too brittle.

    If you make it thin enough to float, it’ll break.

    Make it thick enough to not break, it’ll be too heavy to float.

    Advantages: fireproof, corrosion proof, and soundproof (important if you really like to party).
    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    edit: capt terry convinced me — I take it all back!

  2. capt_terry says:

    I do disagree with you last answers as i have owned two one was a 52ft sloop rig and the last was a 50 plus year old 77 ft brigantine rig,(4 Mast ) both were great vessels and both seen alot of water the 77 footer and been around the world twice before i got her,the 52 was lost in a storm i was sad to see her go but then got the the 77footer and she was a bad to the bone vessel,ran her about 10 years and sold her,my last trip south she was serving as a tour vessel in the Dominican Republic and still very much afloat,the ONE set back i ever saw was the hull was a lot of up keep as the paint was bad about peeling off that was a twice a year job

  3. formersalt says:

    If made by a professional, the concrete hull has lots of advantages over its FRP cousin. The concrete gets harder as time goes on. The first one made in the 1860′s is still afloat. Cement does not blister or delaminate. The weight can be a read advantage when sailing in choppy seas as it will plow through waves that will stop a lighter vessel. If one should encounter a situation that would hole a FRP vessel, the ferro will cave in like an eggshell. Kick it back in shape, slap some fresh cement on it and off you go.
    Down side is dealing with marinas. They think that you will come flying into your slip and destroy the dock. As long as you are aware of your extra weight and adjust your maneuvers there should be no problems.

  4. Robert R says:

    I’m assuming you mean ferro-cement, not true concrete. Ferro hulls are a lot cheaper for the size, which is their main appeal. Otherwise, just like any other hull material, they have their supporters and their detractors. We have lots of ferro hulled sailboats around the Pacific Northwest; they’re not especially pretty, but they last forever, cost less, and are no more or less seaworthy than any other hull material. Oh, and they tend to sail a bit slower than an equivalent sized hull of wood or fiberglass.

    Oh, and I want to “second” Formersalt: if you’re getting a ferro boat, make sure it’s a production boat (or a professionally made custom-built) and not a homebuilt. There are some excellent homebuilt ferro boats out there, but there are plenty of the other kind as well.

  5. Aussie Aussie Aussie Oi Oi Oi says:

    It is very heavy, However an excellent ocean hull. The weight will allow the hull to handle larger seas with minimal disruption to the occupants. Repairs are relatively easy. However when the reinforcement needs replacing, it can be a pain.

  6. yankee_sailor says:

    just to nit pick one answer….a brigantine is a two masted vessel and 77 feet is awfully small for 4 masts…..

    the HUGE disadvantage to ferro hulled boats is their well deserved reputations as sinkers……too many amateur builders got scammed into building…..or starting to build…ferro boats because they” cost half of what a glass boat costs”.

    That is not even close to true and many people got stuck in projects because they were given , er, misleading advice by those selling the ferro kits. They then turned out quick and dirty projects or walked away, leaving the ferro……the iron wire mesh…..to rust away.

    A professionally built ferro……where the steel work is done under cover and the cement ALL LAID UP AT ONCE……..is a possibility. Otherwise you will be forever trying to join new cement to old and that just doesn’t work.

    A boats hull is 20-25% of the total cost…..engines, rig, interior, tanks, electrics all cost the same whether the hull is wood glass steel or ferro. Why start…..or buy……something with a low resale value and trouble finding marinas when you can just do it right from the start in wood or glass…

  7. Dave M says:

    Some good answers. You need to ensure you get a well constructed ferro hull as mentioned earlier.

    The main problem is water intrusion from impacts or poor cure or surface porosity. Once corrosion and rust set in on the reinforcing steel the hull will continuously spawl off bits of concrete. The competant repair is expensive as all corrosion must be exposed back to clean metal and treated and the concrete patched and faired.

    As mentioned before…a good Concrete(ferro/cement) hull is not a bad boat…just make sure you find a GOOD one.

  8. snyder.adam1 says:

    weight weight weight

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