Frequently Asked Question:
ok i have a 83 caprice engine help cars very heavy?
what should i do build a bad ass 383 or go with a 454 and do mods im lokin for over 500 hp and lb toque and i need with the gears and stuff i will need bc i want i decent jump of line but i mainly want top speed someone please help
Answer by bchaller001
your best bet is going with the big block its easy to get that power cheaper than building a small block. but for top end charge i would go with the small block but will be more expensive to reach the same power levels.
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ifit were me i would stay with a small block but build it into a 406 or maybe even a 427. i think big blocks are over weght for what you are trying to accomplish
A Big Block is by far the most reliable and cheapest cost per HP combo to build hands down.
Just don’t go putting a Rectangle port head on a 454 or smaller engine or you’ll knock the torque right out of it if you are looking for streetable power and torque numbers within realistic and daily driven RPM ranges. Stick with an Oval port head and one of my fast ramp solid lifter cams. I can show you how to set up the valve train and valve lash with ease and you’ll have a quiet valve train and you will not have issues keeping the valve lash in check or will you have issues having to set the valve lash frequently. It’s all in the valve lock and how you use it. Done right, it will run for 10-20K miles untouched.
You need a solid lifter cam because it has far faster valve opening than a Hydraulic cam. In fact, a well thought out solid will catch a hydraulic at .050 duration yet can be 20-30 degrees shorter in advertised. This will keep the bottom end in there. You need the fast ramps to make the valve action lie to the engine in terms of the cylinder heads potential. This, along with the right LSA cam will make for an engine that REALLY accelerates.
The critical factor here is valve movement relative to piston movement/where the piston is in the cycle vs where the valve is in the lift curve. A solid lifter cam will make the power without having to beat the engine to death to make that power. It simply unloads the engine.
We don’t want to run a big duration Hydraulic which will have a really early intake valve opening. This will destroy low RPM power. The Solid with its much faster ramp is able to achieve much greater valve lifts earlier during the inlet cycle’s downstroke. This will allow the head to be “in the sweet spot” of it’s flow curve and thus allow the engine to take a much bigger breath of air as well as create much more air speed in the intake port(which is a key ingredient for torque production). And if we can use the cam to motivate valve movement so the lift is in the sweet spot of the heads flow capability, and time this event to occur when the piston is at max velocity in the stroke/cycle, then again, the heads are able to give the engine the long leash and thus let the engine take as big of breath of air as it can.
This is how you can take a junk head used with the right cam and run circles around a great head used the wrong cam. It’s also why you’ll see a 350 run circles around/out power a 454, in some cases. The head/cam combination IS
your power as well as your mileage and drivability factor. Their marriage is why your engine will do everything well or nothing well at all.
As long as you use a fortified break in oil for break in, you can use a conventional oil after that and have no problems with lobe wear/failure. In stock form, the right solid will make you over 500 lbs of torque at realistic RPM levels in a stock 454. I’m talking a 1500-6000 RPM range. Or you can step the cam up a little more and look at 2000-6500 RPM range with a 454. And the engine is daily driver reliable in town or cross country. It’s also very spunky.
Outside of all of that, build a Big Block. You’ll be much better off in the short and long run with your heavy car.
I’ll be here.