6 Responses to Loader: how am i supposed to react/steer when i skid on ice? when hydroplaning?

1. john n says:

   August 19, 2011 at 9:12 pm

   The best way to regain traction when in a skid is to lay off the gas immediately and steer the same direction as the skid.
   Avoid instinctual reactions such as swerving or slamming on the brakes.
   For the Bronco in particular you might want to put some extra weight in the back for winter driving as the center of gravity is higher from the ground and therefore there is higher risk of instability and/or rollover in emergency maneuver.
2. cloud rider says:

   August 19, 2011 at 9:43 pm

   if your car starts sliding,u need to gently apply the brakes & steer so your car keeps going forward,(example-its sliding & turning toward the right,toward)turn the wheel to the left.
3. zirechabe says:

   August 19, 2011 at 9:59 pm

   I’m going to disagree with the guy above me. Steer into the skid, the treads in the tire are designed to deflect the water and allow the vehicle to regain traction. Lightly apply the brakes as well, if you slam on them, the car will continue to slide, no matter what direction your wheel is turned.
4. guess78624 says:

   August 19, 2011 at 10:54 pm

   There is a difference in front wheel drive cars, – and rear wheel drive cars, — also difference in front engine and rear engine!

   Lets take rear wheel drive cars first. When car “skidding” you want to trun steering wheel in direction of skid (very hard to drive yourself to do it if it is aimed at a ditch or trees or something “hard”). Let up on the gas, (don’t apply brakes), — hopefully it will at some point start going in a streight line (control recovered), after which you may try again to get back where you want on road, — you may apply brakes sparingly now (to slow vehicle down more). Anti-skid brakes help a little here, but you don’t want to lock the brakes at any point, as it will then go into another skid of sorts (even if in a streight line it is not controlled!) The “old school training” was to tap the brakes lightly – repetedly so the wheels would not stop turning! If you have a rear wheel drive – rear engine car (like a Corvair I once had), – you may even try adding power (if it is going off on right side of road (front toward centerline), it might push you back into road enough to keep you out of ditch, (you don’t want to “spin the wheels either). Unfortunatly I ended up in the “snowbank more than once loosing it in a turn (backwards)!

   Here is what happens, a front engine rear wheel drive car lets the rear wheels try to get behind the front wheels, – via “drag” , – this tends to “pull” the car streight, as the “center of gravity” is well foreward of the center of the car! If brakes are applied remember that the majority of braking occours on front wheels (as this is where all the weight is – in addiditon that the car is moving foreward). The rule of thumb is 60-70% front 30-40% rear braking under normal conditions! This is why front brakes wear out about 3 times faster than the rear!

   The whole “ball” game changes when you have rear wheel drive -rear engine. Now the center of gravity is in the rear, and you have less weight on the front to promote traction (and recovery). Once ther rear heads to the front, you are in “serious trouble”! Now the “center of gravity is heading to the front (of travel direction). You may be able to “push” it a little towards the middle of road (if there is no traffic in other lane.) But my unfotunate experience shows me that once the car reaches 30 degrees out of line – it is “gone” and it will stop when it feels like it, (or hits something un-moveable)!At this point you do step on the brakes, because there is nothing else you can do, — but the result is the same as if you don’t! This car will give you “false sense of security” in cornering normally,- since on dry road and optimal conditions, it will “hold on” much longer than the car with the engine in front! Better to slow down and drive cafrefully in adverse conditons!

   Now front wheel drive cars (all have engine in front too!), – Is a little different, you may actually want to add power slightly, as you start to skid, – turning slightly towards “streightening out direction”( away from skid) if this doesn’t help try in directin of skid) , –(also hard when something unfavorable is in front of you), — and you might try pulling on the “parking brake” a little – (if you have time to do so), this puts drag on the rear wheels, and power on the front, — which will help to some extent to pull the car back out “streight”, – which hopefully gives you some control, — after which you can maybe get it babck on the road and under total control! You may have to experiment a little, as all the weight is foreward of center of gravity, but the drag of engine (and transmission-wheels) slowing down will aggrivate the already deteriorating situation! If ou feel the rear start to “let loose”in streight line travel”, you may be able to “drive it away form a skid” by adding power and truning wheel back slightly towards your lane of traffic! I would suggest you find an empty parking lot somewhere with obstructions well separated form the area you are going to “practice in”, — on a snowy or Icy day, and see how your car reacts to several different approaches, – not all cars react the same, some react faster, some react slower, and some ae more likely to “break out’ in the front than the back, and vice-versa!

   On the bronco, you want to see how it reacts in 2 wd, and 4wd, – they will be different! Personally I would drive in 2wd most of the time, only using 4wd when I absolutely needed it to keep from getting stuck, – or “bogged down”. I makes the front axle components last longer, and it uses a little less gas, – it also makes the “expected characteristics” more “normal”.

   I grew up in the “High Sierria Nevadas” mountians (California side),– and spent 22 years in Wisconsin, so I have a little experience!
5. Maverick off Top Gun says:

   August 19, 2011 at 11:41 pm

   The best thing to do is get your cars find a nice peice of deserted snowy road when nobody else is around and try throw the car off balance at low speed. This will not only teach you but it will let you know what you are already capable of doing. Always countersteer into the slide, but every situation is different. Some you will get away with just backing off the power, others you will need to give it a little bit extra to catch it or to ride the slide out. This you will only learn by experience. Whatever you do remember to be smooth with your inputs. Sharp jerky application of brakes, steering or throttle will probably make things worse. The more you do it the more you will be comfortable with it. Also sliding in gravel can teach you the basics of sliding a car. Practice and experience mate it is the only way you learn.

   And remember to drive to the conditions slow down if the weather is terrible.
6. b-b-b-brengun says:

   August 19, 2011 at 11:44 pm

   Nothing you can do unless you have studded tyres. You said ICE. You cannot steer or brake.

   No tyre noise indicates you are driving on ice – come gently off the gas.

   Hydroplaning or aquaplaning is another matter…..

   Hydroplaning is caused by excessive speed over standing water, causing the wheels to lift, similar to water skiing.

   When hydroplaning, come smoothly off the gas until the tyres regain contact with the road. DO NOT STEER, unless you are approaching a corner, as when the tyres regain grip you will be in a steering state.