Excavator: If you had a Harley with higher compression would you purchase a heavy duty starter for it?

Question:

If you had a Harley with higher compression would you purchase a heavy duty starter for it?

I have a 2005 Road King that was upgraded with an Edelbrock upgrade kit to 95 ci about two years ago. Recently the clutch in the starter failed. For about 50 or 60 dollars I can get another clutch and we can put it back together. Or for about $ 400 I can get a heavy duty starter. Does that sound worth the investment or should I just spend the $ 50 and slap it back together. After all, $ 400 is a lot of money. thanks, Tom

Answer by Mad Jack
Kind of a judgment call. You know that your cheaper $ 50 fix is not going to last. You may get stranded next time it fails.

But then you could repeat this cheap fix it 8 times for $ 400.

Personally, if you can afford it you should bite the bullet and spend the $ 400 to fix it right. Your ride will be more reliable.

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7 Responses to Excavator: If you had a Harley with higher compression would you purchase a heavy duty starter for it?

  1. Micah says:

    get the heavy duty trust me high comp engines demand a lot to start sometimes especially when its hot nothing like the bike not starting in front of all of your buddies.

  2. Derail says:

    I would go with the better starter. S&S makes a good heavy duty unit for greater compressions. Remember, a Harley is like a small business – you’re making everything just right for the next guy.

  3. JetDoc says:

    It’s your money, you make the choice. The original clutch lasted five years. How many years will the next one last, and will you keep the bike that long?

    Personally, I wouldn’t spend $ 400 to fix something when I could do the job for $ 50.

  4. The Freak Show says:

    You didn’t say how many miles your bike has or how much use it gets. If you put 15,000 miles per year, ride your bike daily, and your bike has 75,000 miles on it, that starter held up pretty well. I would just fix it and look forward to another 5 years of good service. If you ride 2,000 miles per year, and the bike has 10,000 miles, that’s a different story.

    Do you even plan to own the bike in another 5 years?

    Is the $ 350 difference something that will hurt you financially, or do you make enough money that it’s irrelevant?

    You also didn’t say how high your compression ratio was. That would make a big difference in the advice people give.

    If it were my bike, I would probably just rebuild it and go.

    In my opinion, with limited information, neither is a bad choice.

  5. Andy says:

    My Electraglide has a 95″ kit on it also and i’ve never thought it needed a heavier starter.With the F.I. it starts so quickly the starter doesn’t get a big workout put on it.Me i would just fix the starter you have.If your heads are set up to add compression releases you might what to think about adding them as they aren’t too expensive.

  6. vtwin_doc says:

    A 95″ Twin Cam with compression over 10:1 is going to max out the capabilities of a stock starter.
    You would definitely be better off replacing the starter as compared to fixing the old one. A $ 50 starter clutch is just that, a cheap “get by”. Do the job right the first time, and you won’t have to do it again. When I build performance engine for my customers, a new starter is ALWAYS included in the package. For your application, nothing extreme is needed, but something more heavy than stock is needed. Rpleacing the stock unit the a new, heavy duty one will start the bike MUCH easier with less strain on the starter itself and the battery.
    Below is a link for a Spyke 1.4kw starter that I have used dozens of times without any failures.
    http://www.dragspecialties.com/product/getProductDetails.do?application=dragspecialties&regions=6&segmentId=1&comCodeId=27&subComCodeId=2110&itemOffset=&pageSize=&productId=32427

  7. strech says:

    I put a set of compression releases on mine.
    However, it’s an S&S motor, and the heads came already drilled and tapped for compression releases.

    The problem you’ll have, is you’ll need your heads drilled and tapped for the releases, plus about another $ 250 (for electric, automatic compression releases) for the releases themselves.

    Here’s another option:

    http://www.jpcycles.com/search/search?Context=28002800%2B274677%2B28004264&Ntt=easy+start+cams&Ntk=All&refinement_search=1

    Here’s how it works: Each of the two exhaust cam lobes are equipped with a spring loaded compression release lobe on the “heel” of the cam at the point where the valve would normally be fully closed, the lobe holds the exhaust valve open slightly at cranking speed, this releases some of the compression, making the engine much easier to crank , once the engine starts, and rpm increases, the compression release lobe is centrifugally retracted and the engine runs normally, with full compression, and without any loss in performance.
    This allows a stock starter and battery to start nearly any engine.

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