FAQ:
problem with 1983 honda 750 shadow reposted with details?
this has been a ongoing problem when i bought the bike the guy told me he had to replace the battery every year. i was riding it replacing the battery once a year and then it started to become difficult to start it needed a couple of tries then i was riding it and sitting at a red light and it backfired a couple of times real loud so i went straight home and the plastic connectors to the voltage regulator were melted together so my husband at the time cut the plastic melted mess off and hard wired the wires together. i took the bike to the shop and had them hook it up to the machine to test electrical charging capabilities and they told me it’s charging a little more than recommended but everything was good and tested fine and the charging system was ok cause it wasn’t too much over the recommended volts. and then i was riding again and the bike stalled on me and wouldn’t start again i was 3 hours from home. when i trailered it home i had to buy a new battery because it was fried. wouldn’t hold a charge. and then i would have to replace battery’s every 2 months because they wouldn’t hold charges anymore and it’s the special t battery so their on the expensive side. the batteries were full of acid. one battery the cell fell and shorted the battery out at the time i thought it was a fluke. i had the regulator tested replaced the 2 spark unit boxes i even tested the fuel pump to make sure it was getting enough fuel it would still kill the batteries so they wouldn’t hold charges. the last time i tried to start it, it started but as soon as you put it in gear it would stall. i retested the electrical components again and they all tested good. (alternator, regulator, stator, everything the clymer book tells you to do) all of this happened over a 5 year period. it just kept getting worse. i am now riding a 82 magna but it’s more top heavy than the shadow. i would love to get the shadow back out or trade the shadow and magna for another shadow. i just don’t know if it’s just the early shadows that have problems or was it just mine. thanks
Answer by Kirk
The charging system should be outputting no more than 14.5 volts. Any more than that it will overcharge and destroy the battery.
I would pull the battery cables off. Check to make sure they are not damaged. Reattach the cables and make sure they are getting good clean, tight, connections.
Fire the motor up and make sure the stater is not stuck on. Measure the voltage on the battery with the motor running, it should be about 14.1 volts. OK? Increase the throttle and see if the voltage increases too, if it does, then the regulator is bad.
The Alternator could still be bad. There are Diodes in the alternator that fail.
The Alternator & Regulator are likely the most probable reason for your problem.
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the regulator/rectifier is needing replaced as it is not functioning correctly,the regulator converts a/c power generated by the alternator to d/c power to charge the battery and power the systems when running the machine,when a regulator starts to malfunction it cooks the battery then as it gets worse melts wires and cooks batteries even faster,sometimes bike shops just check for a charge,they also get it wrong and do not check the current i am confident the charge going into your battery is a/c (alternating current) not d/c (direct current) which your 12volt system runs on.
try borrow a good regulator from a friend and try that,i have had many bikes of this era and this was the same old honda issue of the time good luck ride safe
Loose connections at the regulator/rectifier will cause the connector to over heat.
It was a good idea of your hubby to hard wire the wires together.
The alternator (actually it’s an AC generator) puts out over 100AC volts.
The rectifier changes AC volts to DC volts.
The regulator only allows up to 14 volts to go to the battery (to prevent over charging), then dumps the excess voltage to ground (green wire).
If there is not a good connection to ground, the excess voltage has no where to go and will cause the regulator to over heat and fail.
Since the 2 components (regulator & rectifier) are incorporated into the same part, if one fails it can affect the other.
Make sure there is a good connection to ground (the problem can be
in the wire harness).
A loose connection to ground at the connector is not a good thing.
The connectors will loosen up after repeated plugging and unplugging the reg/rec.
Over charging is from the regulator.
Burning up batteries would be a symptom of a bad regulator.
Either follow the directions to the letter to test the charging system, or bring your bike to a different shop.
The bike is old and new mechanics don’t know how to work on them.
A common problem with the charging system on that model is the rotor.
The rotor is an “electro magnet”
It gets magnatized from battery voltage passing through a set of brushes that rub against the rotor.
Check that battery voltage is getting to the brushes – one brush (+) the other ground (-)
Power to the brushes are at the 2 white wires of the stator’s connector.
Check the resistance between the 2 rings on the rotor.
Check the length of the brushes – they have ware limit lines.
If the left crankcase cover has any dents of scrapes, it could be mis-aligned and should be replaced.
All of this has to do with the battery not getting fully charged (which would cause the battery to go dead).
Maybe your mechanic checked the charging system backwards LOL
Since you have an 82 Magna, why not swap the rectifier/regulator. The Magna r/r might be of different shape than the Shadow, but the connectors are the same. You need to get new connectors and rewire the cables from the stator to the Shadow’s r/r.
Since the Magna r/r is a known “good” one, it should also be good when installed in the Shadow. This should narrow your trouble shooting. If the problem persists, at least you have eliminated the r/r as source of your problem.
The igniters and fuel pump are not connected at all to this problem.
My 82 Magna r/r wires also melted and fused. Just replaced the plastic connectors. Available at automobile or electronic stores.