Concrete: Can I tow this load with the equipment I have?

FAQ:

Can I tow this load with the equipment I have?

I just inherited a boat from a deceased acquaintance of mine. It is a Seadoo 15′ Speedster Jetboat. I researched on NADA Boats, and it listed the Seadoo coming in at ~1200lbs (doubt this includes trailer weight). So my estimate is 2000lbs for the [fueled] boat and trailer [class 1]. I have 2 cars and a motorcycle, but no truck/SUV. I am wondering if either of my cars might be able to tow this craft.

The vehicle I have in mind is a heavily modified Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4. It is AWD with a reforged Getrag 5spd. Weight is 3600-4000lbs. This car has about 500HP @ 6k RPM & 375TQ @ 2,500RPM. Crusing speed (55mph) in top gear is ~2k. Stage 3 clutch is installed, large Brembo brakes equiped, and the car has front and rear LSD’s. Additionally, the car has Electronically Controlled Suspension [ECS] which lets you set the suspension in a soft mode for touring, and a hard mode for race driving. The car’s stock suspension was further modified with a set of Eibach sport springs.

Summit Racing has a hitch specifically for the VR4 that bolts to existing mounting points on the frame. The hitch is a class 1 (adequate for this SeaDoo?). I might need a tongue extender because of the vehicle height [or lack thereof], since I don’t want my car to become a submarine. Other than that, I think everything else seems somewhat viable? My original concern was destroying my clutch while retrieving the boat.

The locations for my boating are a maximum of 60 minutes away [~90% highway]. Ramps are concrete, and are textured for additional traction. Can my VR4 handle this? I have seen people towing bigger things with cars I deem less capable (Ford Taurus’s, Buick LeSabre’s, & Toyota Camry’s). With the VR4′s weight, weight distribution (Front=60/Rear=40), and performance improvements – I’m thinking it’s possible if those cars “can” do it.

NOTE: I am not looking for an answer which involves obtaining another vehicle. I’m trying to downsize as it is. I have towed many things, but my boat-towing experience involves an Astro Van & an 18′ StarWeld. Thank you for your time and consideration!
The other vehicle is a 2005 Subaru WRX sedan with the 4EAT. It’s peak output is only about 200HP and much less torque (due to the automatic trans losses). There exists a class 1 hitch [2000lbs] for this car as well, but I was planning on selling this car. That’s why I didn’t include it in the original question. As I said, I am trying to part with my excessive vehicles [I'm single and it's not likely to change], not replace what I already have. My insurance is through the roof… I understand that certain factors work against using my VR4, but overall it compares relatively well with many SUV’s and light trucks of yesteryear (rangers and the similar imports). If it was an automatic, I wouldn’t have asked. I hate driving slushboxes, but I must admit that torque converters do serve a decent purpose once in a blue moon. CVT’s will eventually replace both standards and automatics in the next 10 years anyways, if we don’t go electric by then.
The other vehicle is a 2005 Subaru WRX sedan with the 4EAT. It’s peak output is only about 200HP and much less torque (due to the automatic trans losses). There exists a class 1 hitch [2000lbs] for this car as well, but I was planning on selling this car. That’s why I didn’t include it in the original question. As I said, I am trying to part with my excessive vehicles [I'm single and it's not likely to change], not replace what I already have. My insurance is through the roof… I understand that certain factors work against using my VR4, but overall it compares relatively well with many SUV’s and light trucks of yesteryear (rangers and the similar imports). If it was an automatic, I wouldn’t have asked. I hate driving slushboxes, but I must admit that torque converters do serve a decent purpose once in a blue moon. CVT’s will eventually replace both standards and automatics in the next 10 years anyways, if we don’t go electric by then.

Answer by roger
your not going to have any problems, any clutch set up for a 500 hp engine will have no problem with any extra weight about the only time it will do any work is pulling the boat out. Other than that and starting off from a stop you will be using the engine and transmission. Longer trailer tounge is a good idea amd make sure your emergency brake is good and tight in reverse, some E brakes hold good forward, but may not hold so well in reverse. And you do not want to make a submarine by accident.

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4 Responses to Concrete: Can I tow this load with the equipment I have?

bo says:

November 20, 2011 at 12:33 pm

the towing weight is the car,the boat.trailer and whatever else on/in it so if over that could be problems getting it out of the water and so forth
Havoc Squad says:

November 20, 2011 at 1:15 pm

No, this Seadoo sport mini-boat with fuel, gear, and trailer weighs too close to the maximum rated limit of most Class 1 hitches. Estimating 1,750 lbs gross trailer load for a hitch that is rated 2,000 pounds gross trailer weight is too close to the limit.

The engine and transmission might be able to handle it, but your car’s type of brakes (even with the aftermarket upgraded ones) are not designed for towing significant loads and the car’s frame is not built to tow that level of weight. You would definitely be getting extremely close to the limits of what your car could deal with regarding the towed load.

Despite your desire to avoid more vehicles, from my experience in towing boats you need a SUV or an extended cab truck rated to tow most common trailer loads. (2,000 to 2,800 common trailer weighs on most common pleasure boats)

You could try it, but I definitely would advise against it for safety reasons and also to prevent excessive wear on your car.
AWBoater says:

November 20, 2011 at 1:15 pm

Boat weights are normally listed as “dry” weights, without fuel, batteries, optional equipment, or trailer.
Cliff says:

November 20, 2011 at 1:39 pm

that mitsubishi in original stock condition, well maintained of course, i’d say yes.
its a light toy on a light trailer with little hitch weight (hitch is the weight the rear axle of the tow vehicle actually carries on it).

as is, yes you have have PLENTY of power, more so then my full size truck does. but WHEN is that power made?
truck motors, meant to pull loads, meant to get extra weight moving from a dead stop, have lots of low end power. you get most of your power at HIGH rpms, doubly so if its turbo (isnt the 3000gt twin turbo???) and your turbos need high flowing exhuast generated by high rpms before they start adding power.
and while i have no doubts that motor is very much built to handle the stresses of hard driving with that vehicle, is it meant to handle the stresses of pulling an extra ton around is a different question……

same question needs asked about your transmission and clutch. i’m sure they are very capable high performance, they would have to be to handle the motor. but again, can they handle the stresses of pulling another ton around?
and your concerns about the clutch are most definetly valid. your gonna be NEEDING higher rpms to get moving and are gonna be working that clutch in ways it wasnt designed for.

the bottom line here is you got a LOT of money into that vehicle. any breakdowns is gonna be EXPENSIVE. you would really be better off using something that is more replaceable or cheaply fixed.

you said you still have one more vehicle, besides the motorcycle, its probably better suited. anything in the class of the honda accord type of economy class vehicles should be capable of the task.
i might look into an aftermarket tranny cooler though, especially on automatics, just to help keep the heat down with the extra load and help the tranny to live a long life. and automatics, with the torque converter, do have certain advantages in pulling up a luanch ramp with the ability to multiply torque. faster the motor spins with the driveshaft not spinning the more torque is being boosted int he torque converter)

and worse comes to worse, find yourself a 90′s chevy 1500. chevy makes very relaible trucks, plenty of older ones with lower prices on the market that are still in very good shape.
adding another vehicle to your insurance gets you a discount, a LOW mileage used only on the weekend tow vehicle can be just dollars per month to insure (i added a 2nd vehicle once, nice minivan only a decade old, $ 19 per YEAR, and i was only 22 with tickets on my record at the time).
it wont get 30 miles per gallon, or even 20 (the 20XX chevys do though) without the trailer, but it wont start DRINKING gas with it like an economy class vehicle does (04 accord towing my boat gets 21 mpg, 30 by itself. my chevy 1500 gets 17 without it, 16 with it, BARELY a difference).

the biggest advantage of a truly meant for the load vehicle isnt the power it can provide, even at LOW rpms. its the braking system, a braking system meant to handle stopping much more then just the vehicle itself (i’ve been rear ended 4 times with just this chevy truck i’m in now, only one got past the tow hitch to the metal bumper. with standard 4 wheel disc ABS, it just STOPS when you want it too. dont underestimate the braking abilities of full size american trucks).